[fashion] DIY otome/otona kawaii astrology map blouse

After exactly 2 years of procrastinating, I finished this navy blue and white astrology map blouse from Otome no Sewing volume 14. Why did it take so long for a relatively simple pattern? Well because the fabric I chose actually was the worst choice for a short sleeve blouse in a warm climate, but I had already cut it, and the pieces plus remnants cannot be salvaged for anything else (except maybe a tiny quilt). I was so frustrated by my lack of foresight, I put it in the WIP or UFO bin for 2 years. But then I had a week off this week, yet didn’t want to work on my cosplays that I had planned to because they were all going to be even more layered and stuffy (also didn’t have the fabrics in yet), so I decided to just finish this blouse for a quick win. And finish I did. Stay tuned for worn photos and tiny accessories from the scraps in a future post! Maybe… I didn’t even post worn photos of my past 2 projects because of my hands, maybe I’ll do it quickly some weekend lol.

I had saved videos of my sewing progress in order to make a quick video for the algorithm back then, but once I realized the fabric was too stiff and bulky to wear as a comfortable blouse with short puff sleeves no less, I gave up filming. Also I decided after the advent of AI and plagiarism to not post videos to social media with my voice or face, but I probably will post to this site once the laws or industry shape up more promising (as if, lmao)

This is design 27 in Otome no Sewing volume 14, which highlighted some Pink House and larme-kei/otona-kawaii fashion along with the usual lolita fashion. Pink House style seems to be Misako’s preferred everyday style, or at least what she posts on her insta most often, as she is in the older age range of 30s to 40s, and this style favors voluminous and loose puffy blouses, long midi- or ankle-length full skirts. It still has ruffles and bows and aprons, but comfortable and even more modest, what a lolita might wear once they get older and less flexible and start getting hot flashes and want to wear something that could technically blend in with the normie women’s fashion but still looks cute. Not that you can’t cook and clean in lolita, but as many a lolita would complain, “it hurts my tummy to wear all those layers for more than a few hours.”

As such, this is a pattern for a peter pan collar button-down blouse with 2 different sizes/shapes of round collars, and 2 different styles of puff short sleeves, that can also be used as the top half of a button-down dress, only 2 bust side darts, extremely versatile. I chose a larger collar and extremely puffy sleeves instead of moderately puffy sleeves. I was excited to use this fabric because it had a cool print that could work with celestial and space themes and was toned-down enough to wear for work or normie outfits, but after working with the material for a while, I realized it felt too stiff and rough on my skin, and with the interfacing and doubled layers and gathers, it looked bulky like an unlined jacket instead of a blouse.

Wait, you may be thinking, didn’t this exact situation happen recently with the donut one-piece dress made from the thick fabric?  Did you forget what you learned 2 years ago and make the wrong fabric choice of quilting cotton again a year later?

Listen… Yes, I did forget. But also, the label on the donut fabric said it could be used for clothing, so I was lied to.

The instructions, despite being in Japanese, were easy to follow once you drafted the pattern from the instructions given to alter the base pattern. The direction called for 7 buttons but I only had six of these clear flower plastic buttons from Joann’s, so I didn’t do anything for the last hole, not sure if I will wear this untucked, but I may just sew a snap on the underside if needed. According to the notes in my fashion journal, I was also concerned that the interfacing layer didn’t quite line up to the shoulder seams/hems, some of which I french-seamed for sturdiness, yet another meh idea. At one point, the facing required zig zag stitch of the hem to lay smooth and that wasn’t fun. Finally, the fit was shapeless as expected of this fashion style, and the shoulders were a half-inch too wide even though size large tops fit me well overall. So I went ahead and trimmed the shoulders by a half inch on each side, but with the puffiness of the sleeves and the overall baggy fit, it still looks like it could use another slice cut out of the arm-scye. At least I can move my arms comfortably, always a concern with tailored shirts. And at least I centered the circle of the map on the back and matched the sleeves, the reason why only scraps remained.

What do I like about this piece? Well, not much other than the cool print, but overall, the sewing process was not too bad despite the many moving pieces of a button-down blouse. My buttonhole function on the sewing machine doesn’t work right, so I handsewed the button holes but even that wasn’t too irksome since the messy stitches are hidden by the button in the end. I think this is the first button-down blouse I made from scratch with proper collar and facing, and it looks quite good and polished on the mannequin! I probably could handle sewing another blouse (haha, but I won’t!) with the right fabric and after actually making that bodice block I keep mentioning so I can trim the shoulders in one go.

What did we learn? First, go to the fabric store and touch all the fabrics with your hands despite knowing a bunch of kids and elderly ladies did the same thing before you did. And then choose the lightest fabrics mentioned on the pattern directions, nothing that can conceivably be used for quilts or home decor. I suppose I could still wear this with a camisole underneath for work, but most likely I will wear it under a jumperskirt… once I find one. I don’t have anything to match this oops. Anyway, what do you think? Would you style this as a light jacket or as a blouse?